Modest kandyk for elegant interiors

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Touching flowers of kandyk in general terms seem unremarkable. In room culture, it is impossible to look away from the kandyk with its bashfully bowed flower heads and unusually gracefully turned away petals. This is one of the most beautiful indoor bulbs, which they decide to grow in pots not so often. But kandyk is much easier to distill than most primroses and more popular bulb species. He needs standard care and one long rest period after planting with not so strict temperature control.

Content:

Charming kandyk in a new status
Types of indoor kandyks
Conditions for growing indoor kandyka
Kandyk Care at Home
Diseases, pests and growing problems
Propaganda kandyka

Charming kandyk in a new status

Representing the onion kandyk family, which we do not like to call by a botanical name erythronium (Erythronium) Is one of the most moving garden primroses. Actually, the botanical name of erythronium from the Greek "red" was known even in ancient Greece. Due to the special shape of the bulbs around the globe, the plant is more often called, like ours, simply - kandyk or dog’s tooth.

Erythroniums are small-bulbous primroses modest in size and leafy. Thin peduncles, crowned with a slightly drooping flower, will not exceed 15 cm in height. And their unusual purplish-brown color seems to flow to the base of the flowers and specks on the leaves. Leaves usually grow in total in the amount of one pair. They are atypical for all early spring bulbous crops - oval-lanceolate, quite wide up to linguistic, leaves more reminiscent of orchids than ordinary grass-like leaves of indoor bulbous. The length of the leaves is up to 15 cm. They are gray-emerald green, often decorated with unusual specks of purple tones, quite tough.

The flowering of kandyks is often compared with cyclamens. Of course, they are far from the general form, but the bent, turned up petals make these two cultures related. Kandyk flowers conquer with its shape and grace. Their tube is elongated, expanding, the petals are loose, falling, triangular or pointedly triangular in shape, they bend backward, allowing the long pistil and stamens with light yellow anthers to hang down freely. The diameter of flowers in kandyks rarely exceeds 5 cm. In pots, the flowering of kandyks reminds of fairies, it seems to be something touching and fragile. And the smaller the capacity in which the plants are planted, the more complete this effect. In room culture, flowers close only at night or on very cloudy days. The color palette of kandyka is limited to dark lilac, pink, white and yellow colors.

In room culture, kandyks are most often expelled as a typical primrose - with flowering in late February or early March. Such terms require planting at a time when most bulbs are planted in the garden in the garden - in August and September. Offset planting provides a difference in flowering times. But since the plant remains almost wild even in distillation, it is better to use standard planting dates.

Types of indoor kandyks

In a room culture, you can grow any kandyka, but only three species do not show a deterioration in flowering (in flower size) and subsequent oppression of the plant after transferring it to the open ground.

For distillation better than others are suitable:

Kandyk European (Erythronium dens-canis) - a beautiful medium-sized appearance with leaves up to 20 cm in length, most often decorated with purple or brown spots. Peduncles thin and long, crowned with graceful flowers of a white-pink-lilac gamma resembling a lily with bent petals. Flowering lasts more than 3 weeks.
Kandyk Siberian (Erythronium sibiricum) - the most common and well-known representative of the genus, not losing its charm in pots. Its solitary, with triangular petals strongly rejected back, dark lilac flowers on strong peduncles seem sad, and spotty leaves open up perfectly in room culture. When transferred to pots, flowering does not suffer, but the plant needs to rest for 2-3 years between distillations.
Kandyk large-flowered (Erythronium grandiflorum) - more elegant thanks to narrowed petals, but not so interesting in form. The petals are only slightly turned away, strongly narrowed, and the color - sunny yellow - only emphasizes the unusual light green-yellow hue of the peduncle. The leaves are dark green; there is no typical speck on them. This bulb is allowed to rest between forcing 1-2 years, planting in open ground after flowering.

For indoor culture, varietal plants of hybrid origin are most often chosen. In their name there is always an indication of the color or its mixture - lilac Lilac Wonderpurple pink "Purple King"snow-white "Snowflake"candy pink "Rose Beauty"snow-white "White Splendor", a mixture of varieties with different colors "Charmer" etc.

Conditions for growing indoor kandyka

This bulbous does not quite resemble its garden counterparts. Kandyk rooms will need brighter lighting and more moderate temperatures. But otherwise, growing kandyk is not at all difficult. Due to the fact that the cool period of preparation for flowering coincides with the end of autumn and the beginning of winter, it will not be difficult to create a suitable environment for the bulb.

Lighting and placement

Despite the status of a shade-like primrose, the rooms in Kandyks need very different conditions than in the garden. Here, shadow or partial shade is best replaced with good, but diffuse lighting.

Containers with planted kandyk bulbs are kept in shade before being transferred to heat and light. From August-September to December, for 3–4 months, they should be shaded. During the period of active growth and flowering, bright, protected from direct rays, but not partial shaded locations are selected for kandyka. It blooms best on a window sill or near windows.

For kandyk, windows of eastern and western orientation are preferred. Touching plants can be used as accents in a seasonal interior and small living bouquets.

Temperature and ventilation

For kandyka there is no need to observe very strictly the alternation of warm and cold periods in order to achieve flowering. After planting the plants for rooting for 6-8 weeks, the kandyk is kept at ordinary temperatures, and then transferred to any non-freezing cool room (with a temperature of from 2 to 12 degrees).

At a cool stage, the plant is kept until December, after which it is transferred to any living room with an air temperature of more than 18 degrees. Normal room temperatures are quite suitable for kandykas, but the more moderate the temperature, the longer the flowers last for this plant.

Kandyk Care at Home

You can’t name a complex onion kandyk. He loves not dry air, requires accuracy in irrigation, but he looks very decorative and original and will not cause trouble even with top dressing. Even inexperienced gardeners can force him out, if you follow the one and only rule - to avoid abundant watering.

Watering and humidity

For kandyka, it is very important to organize a neat, gentle watering. Bulbs of a plant in a pot culture are sensitive to uneven moisture, moisture accumulation in the lower part of the containers. The kandyks are watered so that the substrate dries between these procedures in the upper layer, and the overall moisture level remains light and uniform. This bulbous requires watering, the temperature of which slightly exceeds the air temperature. After transplantation, when kept in heat at the rooting stage, the bulbs are watered with a minimum amount of water, without creating a stably humid environment. When kept in cool watering is not carried out, and with the transfer to heat, watering begins to resume gradually.

High humidity contributes to the beauty of the leaves of the plant, and the duration of flowering. Kandyks look best in rooms with dry air. You can spray only the leaves, but it is better to do with other measures - for example, installing plates with wet pebbles or indoor fountains nearby. Plants can be grouped with other moisture-loving crops, for which they increase performance with moisturizers.

Fertilizing and fertilizer composition

For kandyks in a room culture, top dressing can be omitted at all: this plant manages to bloom before it uses all the soil resources. If you want to get larger flowers, then at the stage of budding 1-2 feeding is carried out with special fertilizers for flowering crops in a standard dosage.

Transplant and substrate

Kandyk is planted for the classic flowering period in the third decade of August or the first half of September. After flowering, the plants must be planted in open ground (of course, if they want to save, and not throw away).

Plants never grow one bulb, but in large groups their charm is lost. Planting 3-4 onions in one container is the best option. Accordingly, for this onion, miniature neat pots are selected from among highly decorative containers or using the technique of planting in conventional forcing tanks with exposing them to decorative ceramic vessels.

For this type of onion, you can use any quality substrate - both purchased and mixed independently. Kandyk prefers light, medium in nutrition, loose earth mixtures from among universal soils. An equal ratio of turf, leafy soil, humus and sand is quite suitable. You can use a special substrate for bulbs.

There is nothing complicated about landing a kandyk. Bulbs are buried by 3-4 cm, strictly vertically, gently filling the gaps with soil and not tamping the substrate too much. Planting is not completed with traditional watering, because it is from her that the process of preparing for flowering in dryness and shade begins.

Diseases, pests and growing problems

This bulbous does not suffer from diseases or pests typical of indoor plants. For any signs of bulb damage by mold, root mites or nematodes, it is better to destroy the plants immediately and not transfer them to open soil.

Propaganda kandyka

In a room culture, kandyks only propagate vegetatively - separating daughter bulbs formed from planted mother plants and growing them for several years as an open ground culture, and then using them for distillation.

Growing indoor kandyks from seeds is impractical. After all, plants bloom no earlier than the fifth year, and even then, provided that from the second they will be cultivated as garden, rather than potted bulbous.