How to grow decorative poppies from seeds?
Colorful symbols of summer, tremulous, gentle, and at the same time so hardy, decorative poppies, do not leave anyone indifferent. The inimitable colors and structural details of these amazing colors are the permanent decoration of any garden in the summer. But growing decorative poppies is not a very standard task, although not a difficult one. Poppies are propagated by seeds, and the available choice of methods and methods for sowing allows everyone to find their own ideal option.
The reputation of cultural, decorative poppies has been significantly affected by the confusion and their association with the species, the cultivation of which is punishable by law - sleeping pills. The most beautiful ornamental poppy, the eastern poppy, which, if it can be grown, is also affected by the legislative ban, in a quantity limited to several specimens, as well as several other species. But other types of poppies, which have no relation to opiates and do not contain narcotic substances, such as flowering perennials, biennials and perennials, for some reason also remain banned for some reason. And although the beauty of poppies does not become less admirers, they are still significantly inferior to other summer-flowering competitors in their distribution.
Note! According to the current legislation of the Russian Federation, the cultivation of the following types of poppies is prohibited: sleeping pills, oriental, bristle-bearing, bracts.
Representatives of the genus Mack (Papaver) are herbaceous perennials, biennials and annuals with a very powerful stem root, strong straight single shoots, and an amazingly hairy carved greenery, famous for its filigree silver-blue texture. Regularly arranged, cirrus-dissected, almost prickly to the touch due to the edge, leaves can reach 30 cm in length. Poppy blooming is a bewitching sight. Drooping buds, straightening flower stalks and spectacular large saucer flowers with the most beautiful stamens among garden plants are fascinating as they bloom. The flower cup consists of two large sepals, and the corolla is easily recognizable by the delicate, almost transparent, quivering four large petals surrounding the delightful “powdery” center of anthers and stamens, usually of almost black color. Red, yellow, pink, orange, purple and even blue - decorative poppies can boast amazingly beautiful shades that inspired the legendary painters, today cause only admiration. After flowering, fruit boxes are tied with beautiful discs at the top, filled with small rounded seeds of different shades of gray.
Without exception, poppies propagated by seed. And annuals - pion-flowered poppy, confused poppy or changeable poppy now ranked as self-seeded poppy, gray poppy, poppy poppy or saffron poppy, peacock poppy; and more durable poppies - Alpine poppy, Amur poppy, Atlantic poppy, Burcera poppy, Lapland poppy, Miyabe poppy, polar or Scandinavian poppy, grayish or Tien Shan poppy, Tatra poppy - it is best propagated by seeds. Only for perennial species use some vegetative methods. Growing poppies from seeds is very simple, because the plant often blooms within two months after emergence.
Strategies for growing poppy seeds
Poppies belong to those herbaceous plants that react very poorly to transplants. If possible, they should always be sown directly at the place of cultivation. Through seedlings, poppies are grown very rarely, usually only when they are going to use plants as potted or container accents.
Conditions for growing poppies
Poppies, regardless of species, are light-loving plants, but perennial species can withstand light shading. Poppies in theory are not afraid even of windy areas, but if you do not protect the plant from drafts, then beautiful flowers will quickly fall off it. Choosing secluded, warm, protected areas, you will stretch the pleasure of watching the flowering of magnificent poppies. The soil for poppies can be chosen from any cultivated and not raw, but the best flowering is always observed on nutrient soil. There is a place for poppies in mixed discounts, flower beds, and in rockeries or rock gardens, and on the lawn.
When choosing a place for poppies in your garden, it is worth remembering that the flowering of this plant is very short: a month after its start, the fruits ripen, and then the plant quickly leaves the garden scene. Even in the best perennial poppies, the growing season is limited to an average of 100 days. Therefore, poppies need to be planted so that neighboring plants can mask unattractive withering, and then disappearing greens, or provide for planting in place of poppies other seasonal annual stars. The best partners for perennial poppies are considered to be dolphiniums, cereals, nyvyanik, yarrow, asters, Veronica, oregano and cornflowers.
Growing perennial and biennial poppies
Sowing seeds of perennial and biennial poppies is similar and not complicated. Such poppies are grown:
- sowing in early spring;
- sowing in the winter.
The latter option is considered preferable, since the plants are stronger and more powerful, develop better and bloom earlier. During spring sowing, young plants will need more careful care, because until the seedlings get stronger, they will already encounter heat and droughts, they will not be able to develop normally without watering.
Perennial or biennial poppies can be sown on seedlings, diving after the appearance of the first or second true leaf in a permanent place, but it is better to sow them immediately to the place of cultivation.
During the winter planting, the sowing of poppies is delayed until the last so that the seeds germinating quickly enough even in cold soil do not wake up before the start of winter. Even a soil temperature of 3-5 degrees is not suitable: poppy is sown when the soil has time to freeze in the upper layer, that is, most often in November.
In spring, planting is carried out when the weather allows, the snow will melt and the soil will at least slightly thaw.
The technique of sowing poppy seeds remains unchanged regardless of the timing of their sowing:
- The soil is prepared in advance or before planting, digging and loosening the soil. When processing the soil, it is necessary to remove the rhizomes of weeds, add organic fertilizers and a full mineral mixture (about 10 kg of organic matter, compost or humus and 40-50 g of mineral fertilizers per square meter of soil).
- At the sowing place, in the autumn they gently create shallow, only up to 2 - 3 cm in depth, grooves or rows. Spring sowing can be carried out both in grooves and superficially.
- Poppy seeds are laid out at a considerable distance from each other (from 5 to 20 cm) so that the plants do not need to be thinned out.
- From above, the winter crops are covered with soil, making sure that they do not go too deep. During spring sowing, the seeds are not covered or covered with a light layer of soil, a film to accelerate germination and complete the procedure with watering.
- After spring sowing for 2 weeks, it is necessary to maintain stable soil moisture and make sure that the film is removed immediately when shoots appear.
The seeds sown from autumn will germinate in the spring, as soon as the soil warms up to 3-5 degrees, spring crops can be expected in 10-20 days. Even young plants are frost-resistant, but if frosts exceed 5 degrees of frost, it is better to protect spring crops additionally with non-woven materials.
If the sowing was carried out densely, then the seedlings are thinned out twice - first, at a distance of 10 cm between the plants, and then at 20 cm.
Sowing annual poppy species
One-year-old poppies are sown in autumn before winter or early spring, as early as possible, depending on the weather - from March for the southern regions, until May - for the middle lane. Sowing lead in rows, not much deepening. Shoots will appear in 1-2 weeks. They are thinned out immediately, leaving the plants at a distance of about 20 cm. It is better to immediately sow quite rarely, laying out the seeds at a distance of 10 cm.
Care for young poppies
Poppies are drought tolerant, hardy and generally unpretentious plants. For young seedlings, and adult poppies, one point of care is very important - timely weeding, because poppies will not be able to compete with other aggressive plants.
If sowing was carried out in the spring, then before the period when the plants get stronger, they need to be protected from drought. Both sown in the fall and adult poppies in the active vegetation stage respond well to additional watering, but the main thing with hydration is not to overdo it, just providing protection from drought. If the plants are very tall or the area is windy, then the stems should be tied to supports as they grow.
In the first winter, sheltering young poppies is not necessary.
Also, decorative poppies need other care points:
- soil loosening;
- top dressing (at least one spring or 2-3 top dressing per season)
Alternative Poppy Breeding Methods
All poppies - both annual and perennial, give self-seeding, and this ability can be used for "improvisation", creating natural accents and unexpected flowering spots. If you do not want poppies to appear in unexpected places and “migrate” in the garden or just want to limit the amount of self-seeding for very generous annual poppies by this indicator, then you need to remove seed boxes before they ripen and scatter seeds, which are amazingly easy to scatter from holes under the disc at the top of the fruit.
Often you can see information that poppies are divided and rejuvenated, and for perennial species they even recommend digging and dividing plants with a frequency of 1 time in 3 years. But transplanting poppies is very poorly tolerated and it can be carried out in exceptional cases when plants are threatened with death. This is not about genuine separation, but about the separation of the side outlets and shoots, which appear not only in the spring, but also at the end of summer. Such babies take root very long and difficult, but this is still an acceptable method of reproduction.
Today, it is increasingly being decided to propagate poppies with green and root cuttings, root sections are found on sale along with seed bags and in botanical gardens. Root cuttings are cut from rod roots, dividing them into pieces 4-5 cm long and at least 5 mm thick. After processing the slices with powdered coal, they are dried, and then the cuttings are planted, leaving 1/3 above the soil for rooting. Under a cap, with stable humidity, the plants quickly give tiny sockets. After rooting and the appearance of sprouts, cuttings can be transplanted to a permanent place. Green cuttings are cut from lateral, weak shoots that develop on plants in late summer. They are rooted under a hood in a constantly moist substrate.